The idea of what constitutes heritage can be widely defined. Is it just our monuments? Does it also include material possessions and public buildings that we use daily? A city is like a living organism, with its people, constant changes, new additions and perhaps even destruction. So where does that leave a city like Hyderabad with 500 years of layered history? Somewhere between being a touristy city and also one that has more to offer.
Our heritage is what is passed down from generation to another. In Hyderabad, we have a rich history, one that is similar yet very different when it comes to other cities. We have ancient medieval monuments like the Golconda Fort and the Charminar from the founding Qutb Shahi dynasty (1518-1687), to more recent and even pre-modern structures built about a century ago, like the Osmania Hospital, High Court and even the Arts College of Osmania University.
While I can’t say that we in Hyderabad have preserved everything that we ought to, our city however does have some of the best monuments and places that can rival any city in India, or perhaps even the world. While it does sadden me to say that we have lost a lot over the last few decades, I hope that whatever remains of Hyderabad’s heritage is at least protected in the coming days.
So on World Heritage Day, here’s a list of sites that one should not miss in Hyderabad:
Qutb Shahi Tombs: Currently in the last stages of restoration by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture, the Qutb Shahi Tombs is where the founders of Hyderabad are buried. A 106-acre site, it has some absolutely stunning monuments, which one cannot find anywhere else in the city. Close to the Golconda fort, the royal necropolis also has a Turkish bath (Hamam), mosques and stepwells in the complex. Often overlooked by tourists, I would highly recommend everyone who comes to Hyderabad definitely visit the site.
The Nizams Museums: The sixth Nizam of Hyderabad Mahbub Ali Pasha was known for his quirks. Among them is his massive 176-feet long wardrobe, that is believed to the biggest in the world. The walk-in wardrobe is tucked away inside the lesser known Nizams Museum, which also houses many gifts that were given to the seventh and last Nizam of Hyderabad Osman Ali Khan on his silver jubilee anniversary as king in 1937. A must visit for anyone who loves heritage and museums.
Raymond’s Tomb: We all know about the British settling in Hyderabad and well, generally of their presence in India. However, many are in fact unaware that Hyderabad was also home to a French contingent in the 18th century. Monsieur Raymond was in fact the last French commander posted in our city. Caught between the British-French turf wars here, he reportedly died by suicide in 1798 and is buried in Moosarambagh in Hyderabad.
Baadhshahi Ashoorkhana: A very underrated yet mind blowing monument, the Baadshahi Ashoorkhana is not only the second oldest monument in Hyderabad, but also one of the few places which still has retained some of its original Persian tiles. While the Charminar is the foundation of Hyderabad that was built in 1591, the Ashoorkhana was built a year later by our founder. It usually leaves visitors awestruck.
St John’s Church Secunderabad: As someone who has grown up in Secunderabad, it also peeves me when people forget the area when we think of heritage structures in Hyderabad. And within that, the Church of St John’s the Baptist is my favourite. Why? Because not only is it the oldest church founded in 1813, it also houses one of the only functioning pipe organs in the city.
British Residency: This place is the latest addition to Hyderabad’s list of fully restored heritage sites. Built in neo-classical architecture, the Residency served as the seat of power for the British East India Company and later the crown in Hyderabad. With its own tales of politics and love, the european mansion also houses a dungeon that was built to jail prisoners of the 1857 rebellion in India. This is definitely a place which he highly recommend for a heritage walk with us at The Hyderabad History Project!
